Wednesday, November 26, 2014

GLEB DERUJINSKY - RUTH NEWMAN - A FLYING ODYSSEY OF FASHION



Sunrise at the Temple of Dawn in Bangkok

"A softly eased sheath of white jersey comes winging in via two flying panels that start at the slit hemline, continue into the back decolletage." By Anna Miller








Near Ayutthaya, Thailand, the centuries-old Buddhas sit deep in the lush vegetation. A straight and sleeveless dress of red-flowering silk surah. Its panel resembling folded wings. By Edward Abbott.




Transparent in Hong Kong


On a junk in Hong Kong Harbor, a graceful cowl-collared shirt and finely pleated skirt in white crepe wrapped, Oriental fashion, in bright pink and red printed silk. By Peter Hedges.



Below: Coral feathers printed on silky cotton. A loose overblouse with a drawstring neckline and matching shorts by Tina Leser.















A silky cotton printed with sprigs of fieldflowers gathered with a lavender belt. By Jane Derby.






Heading to Ceylon in a brightly flowered silk cardigan over a sleeveless white dress skirted in pleats. By Kasper.





Lantern-shopping on Delhi, India. The white flannel bateau-necked overblouse easing on to a pleated skirt. Haymaker.





"In Jaipur, saris, freshly dyed and held out to dry make a colorful background for another overblouse - sky blue with a little bow-tied collar. By Kort Lee.







At the observatory at Jaipur, India, a sleek white Arnel sharkskin suit. The sleeveless cardigan straightly dropped over slim pants, by Tabak of California.








TWA posters at the foot of the Acropolis. The dress, an easy front-buttoned chemise in checked brass green and white. By Jerry Gilden







On the hill of the Acropolis, a Harmay white silk dress caught at the waist in beige suede. A coat of oatmeal tweed at the ready. White leather Breton by Emme.





Japan - a shrine in Nara, a dress in natural silk pongee. The low-waisted overblouse line is double-breasted and bound with raw silk. By B.H.Wragge.





In Nara park, the tame deer roam at will. The dress is beige silk chiffon dropped over a matching crepe slip and lightly bloused over a beige satin belt. 






Flamenco in Madrid
La Cave de Luis Candeles


A white matte jersey dinner dress, bateau neckline in front, looped cowl in the back. By Jonny Herbert



Photographer Gleb Derujinsky perched, camera poised on a Bangkok roof. 

Travelling with his wife, model Ruth Newman, fashion editor Bruce Clarke, and his assistant Minoru Ooka, Derujinsky photographed the fashions above during a whirlwind twenty-five day excursion.



Round-the-World Fashion:
HB's Flying Odyssey
Harper's Bazaar January 1958
Photography: Gleb Derujinsky
Model: Ruth Newman


... eyes on the fifties at devodotcom


Saturday, November 22, 2014

THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT - 1971


Carita's new short do













Shrimpton in Mila Schon







Saint Laurent





Cardin

Petal panels over shorts





Givenchy

Paisley organza shirtdress slashed over shorts






Scherrer

White leather shirt - black leather shorts






Saint Laurent






Cathy Brothers - Florence Grinda





Valentino





Pilar Crespi
Valentino Boutique





Betsy Theodoracopulos

Ginola cape - Halston shorts and weskit







Bill Blass scarlet vinyl coat
 Sibley-Coffee silk shorts
Boots - Battani Boutique






Jade Green Fox Chubby 
Saint Laurent



Paris
Vogue March 15, 1971
Photography: 
David Bailey
Henry Clarke
Elizabetta Catalano
Arnaud de Rosnay

... eyes on the seventies at devodotcom

Friday, November 21, 2014

THE DUCHESS OF ALBA - MAY SHE REST IN PEACE




Maria del Rosario Cayetana Alfonsa Victoria Eugenia Francisca Fitz-James Stuart y de Silva.




The Duchess of Alba
1926-2014
Once A Great Beauty






Duchess of Alba Archive

The Duchess of Alba: The Girl Can't Help It! 9/4/2012

JANE BIRKIN - A THING OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER ... AND EVER ... AND ...


Hector Jorge Choker









Quiana nylon Lady Arrow shirt and Joanna Rubens for El Greco fawn suede knickers tucked into a wide grommet belt by Elegant. Watch - Jacques Ferre design for Simonelle. Celia Sebiri suede knapsack.








Taupe poplin cape over matching shorts by Luba for Elite. White-on-white striped cotton shirt from Custom Shop. Studded belt with hanging pocket bag by Elegant.







White voile shirt by Kay Busgang for Alice Stuart. Red satin corselet by Helene MacGregor for the Chelsea Cobbler.








Full and pointed deep white cuffs on a white striped cotton tunic-shirt by Sibley-Coffee worn over Bonnie Doon lace tights.







Navy Jersey button-front shorts jumpsuit belted down over a wide-open Khaki wool skirt by Cacharel. The belt in leather and braided-hemp by Garay.







Custom Shop burgundy-and-white menswear striped shirt with giant tie strapped at the waist with a D'Naz leather belt.  








The navy knit undershirt by Gregory worn over little print britches and white lace legs. The belt by Elegance. Watches by Seiko, Universal Geneve.



The Great American Shirt Life
Vogue March 1971
Photography: Patrick Lichfield



...eyes on the seventies at devodotcom


Thursday, November 20, 2014

DOVIMA IN COUTURE 1958



Dovima
Balenciaga

"In a romantic and deeply Spanish vein, Balenciaga's Fuschsia
balldress is blown back from a decollete bodice to rustling folds of Shantung satin that graze the floor. A scarf of matching Marescot lace veils the shoulders"








Balenciaga

"Balenciaga is chary of color, using ot brilliantly or not at all. The vivid proof: his deep yellow satin dress, drawn high in front at the waist and again at the hem."

Notice the dark hose worn with these formals. Bold.







Givenchy

Givenchy's short evening dress in pink silk moire, "knotted like a bandeau over the bosom and rounded out in soft folds beneath a rising waistline." Velevt hat (probably Halston)from Bergdorf Goodman.







Mainbocher

"Mainbocher's mastery of the perfect poised line, heavy cherise satin, so intricate in concept yet so effortless in effect."

"The pointed decolletage counters a wide satin flange dropped to the waist in back above a slender skirt of unpressed folds. Over the dress Mainbocher throws a loose satin jacket with a great collar, a gathered yoke."






Mainbocher



Mainbocher's short white dinner dress - the bare armed bodice simply clasped by a bowknot above soft tucks. The full skirt springs forward in deep unpressed pleats. A printed mauve and white silk ottoman coat lined in quilted white satin goes with the dress to dinner.






Givenchy


"Givenchy's dinner coat in an intense depth of magenta satin. An extremely short silhouette extended at the shoulder and lifted high at the waist. The upright collar curves to the neck."



Dovima in Couture
Harper's Bazaar November 1958
Photography: Richard Avedon



... eyes on the fifties at devodotcom